We opted to spend three days and four nights in Doordrecht. I mentioned before that my other half had planned this trip meticulously. We had gained one day which we used to catch up on things. Day One we used to find IKEA and a proper marine supplies shop. We don’t have a motor vehicle so getting there is either walking, taking a bus, using the train, or a mix of all three. That took almost a full day. Day Two I did a thorough clean of the boat – defrost freezer, dust, wipe and vacuum, washing and drying. My other half checked all the workings – cleaned filters, replaced the water pump and checked oil and water levels. Day Three we caught up on comms at a bar and did a mini walking tour of Dordrecht. The weather had now gone from days and days of rain and cold to three days on a trot of heat and humidity.
We were edging closer and closer to the Belgian border and one of the requirements is an FD number. Which a person can easily obtain – apparently – via the website. Not so easy when wi-fi is limited. My husband was stressing no end about this. We tried to ask people en-route – either in the locks or at the marinas – if they had crossed the border and what to expect. We got differing responses from those who had travelled to and from Belgium. Which did nothing to allay my husband’s apprehension.
Doordrecht marina
Our next stop was Willemstad. I mentioned that in Enkhuizen boats were not just double banked – but tied up to SIX abreast. We tied up to a boat that was already double banked to another boat as per the havenmeester’s instructions. By the end of the day there were six boats abreast – all tied to each other. Which meant we were in tight proximity to each other. Fortunately no-one snored in the boats near us but the boat next to the quay had a rowdy bunch of people who were well into their beer stash. They were mimicking the sound of bow thrusters and finding it extremely funny. We feared they might carry on all night but luckily the lot of them went off to one of the many restaurants next to the marina in Willemstad. Lovely place. Would have liked more time there. It was hot and people were out in the streets and cafes. We chose to sit on our back deck and listen to people laughing and the sound of the water slapping the hulls of the boats as the sun went down.
Willemstad
Stuck between a bunch of boats meant we had to wait for the others to move before we could make a start to the day. There are people who get going early but most boats begin moving around 10.00am. You have to factor in bridge opening and lock times if they affect your boat (size) and route. No point in hanging around for hours in the water waiting for a bridge to open. Once we got going I was having a turn at driving the boat when the engine suddenly slowed down. I had managed to get sea grass tangled around the propeller. Luckily all it took was a couple of reverse and forward manoeuvres to dislodge it. On one of our trips on a hire boat we managed to get a man’s jacket tangled around the propeller. I’m eternally grateful my other half is a master mariner and an avid boatie. He instinctively knows where to look when things go wrong. He also understands nautical navigation rules and signs. A person can get into a lot of trouble if you don’t know what you’re doing and what to do. Also important to know is which documents, permits and paperwork are required. The authorities dish out heavy fines to transgressors. Ignorance is no excuse. And yet again, I defer all that to my husband and he does a great job of it.
Tholen
Our last stop in the Netherlands was Tholen. So named as it was a point where people paid a toll. We deliberated between Bergen-op-Zoom or Tholen as our last stop. What helped us decide was the marina in Tholen was closer to the town centre. Sometimes a marina can be quite far out of town. Which is a bit inconvenient carrying shopping bags or even exploring. Marinas may offer bicycles either to hire or for free but in the height of season the bikes go fast. It was the first week in August. The apex of European holiday of season. Most children were taking school holidays and families were enjoying the waterways. It seemed like every single person on the planet was out and about. I prefer the shoulder seasons as the marinas are less crowded and quieter. But then less bars and cafes are open and the vibe is subdued. The weather is another factor. I prefer not too hot and not too cold. The warm weather had continued and it was frankly plain hot. Sticky humid kind of hot.
We later discovered Europe was having a heat wave with temperatures up to 39’C in the Netherlands. Humidity levels were around 80% plus. I’m always amazed at how the Europeans relish sun and heat. They don’t miss a ray of sunlight. People were in their swimming gear spread on the bow of their boats topping up their tans. That’s when you can tell who has a hand-held or remote driving device for their boat. Perhaps we get enough sun back in South Africa. Temperatures can soar to 40’C plus in Cape Town but we don’t get the same heavy cloying humidity we were experiencing. South Africans are taught to have the same cautious approach to the sun as Australians.
Nordersluis
With hindsight it might have been best to stay at Bergen-op-Zoom as it’s a bigger town and we needed provisions from a health shop. Tholen is a small town. Throughout the night there were barges driving past Tholen.
A person would expect to lock up going inland and lock down heading toward the coast. In the Netherlands – it works the other way around. It’s always hard for us to grasp that they live below sea level. We were locking up – together with big fat barges – who always have right of way. I was more than a bit annoyed when were told to wait while beroepsvaartuie (working boats) from no-where in sight were given right of way. We waited over an hour for them to arrive. And then a massive pleasure boat was placed in the lock before us. Hardly a working boat. I didn’t think that was fair. Fortunately there was enough space and we all managed to fit into the lock.
The story continues – here.
I mentioned C-Taste earlier. It’s an eatery where you dine in total darkness. A person doesn’t realise that there is ALWAYS some light even in the dead of night. Alarm clock, street lights, mobile phone, LED lights, something is producing even a teeny bit of light. At C-Taste you leave your watch and phone at the front desk, put your hand on the waiter’s shoulder, and are guided to your table. Not so easy to sit down when you have no idea which way the chair is facing and where your table is relative to it. I’m a hectic claustrophobe. I nearly bailed but I’m glad I persevered. Oh and one other thing. You have no idea what you’re about to eat. C-Taste will accommodate any food preference or diet, provided you give them notice.
CTaste
The food was amazing. Our quiet waiter came to life in the dark. Have to confess I used my fingers to eat. It’s nigh impossible to aim a knife and fork if you can’t even see your plate. Let alone the food. I just assumed I would easily guess what we ate but was surprised at how much we eat with our eyes. We liked that they ask you afterwards what you thought you ate and corrected you.
Big passenger ship
Back at the boat we heard a deep horn blowing and raced out to see what it was. The biggest passenger ship I’ve ever seen in my life was being assisted by a pilot and tug. We tried to count the outer cabins but there were too many. That excludes inner cabins. Crew are probably in the bowels of the boat so add them as well. That boat surely accommodates thousands of people. It’s a city – moving on water.
The weather was conspiring against us and we were pretty much trapped by boats at Sixhaven marina. An early start was not possible unless we could get to the outer boxes where we could at least leave without waiting for the surrounding boats to surface and be willing to move. We definitely did NOT want to be doing tight manoeuvres in wind and rain. By about 11am we were finally able to get out the inner section of the marina and move the the periphery.
View of Amsterdam from Sixhaven
We made an early start to Utrecht. The weather was still rubbish. Cold and intermittent rain. We know in the height of summer if you don’t get to a marina shortly after midday you run a real risk of not finding somewhere to berth. Shangri La arrived at Utrecht just after 15.00pm and we bagged the last of three spots. Phew! We’ve been to Utrecht before, so spent the night on the boat. We didn’t feel like going out in the rain after a day of battling the elements on the boat.
Utrecht
Utrecht marina is the cheapest by far at €12. But no wifi. And limited hours at the ablution facilities as they’re connected to a retail shop. That fee did include unlimited electricity (walstroom). We took a day out in Utrecht the next day. Less sightseeing and more about finding things – like brass hooks and stationery. Sometimes just wandering around a place is also a nice way to explore. Apparently Utrecht was plagued by flooding so the canny Dutch rebuilt a new city on top of the old one. Now that they are able to keep the water at bay, Utrecht has two levels. The lower levels are typically where people hire canoes or little dinghies. Coffee shops (real ones – not cannabis smoking spots) and restaurants line the lower canals. The upper level has more cafes and bars but also retail shops. We had an appelgebak (apple tart) and a coffee at HEMA so we could get wi-fi and check for any urgent messages. Leaving Utrecht is special. There a lots and lots of low and sometimes long bridges. Almost tunnels. We dropped our mast, radar arch and awnings so we were as flat as possible. It’s surreal gliding along the canals watching people beavering away and slipping through dark tunnels.
Market day in Utrecht
Next stop was Schoonhaven. By now we’d had five straight days of rain. As luck would have it, the crucial moments, like entering a lock or tying up in the marina, the rain subsided. We were grateful for that. Schoonhaven is a teeny little place. Not a lot going on but we found a gorgeous pub full of old fashioned decor items and authentic interior design. They also played some solid rocking music. Think Stevie Ray Vaughan. A perfect reason to enjoy a glass of wine or a rich dark ale. Or two. For the most part we self-cater on board our boat. Eating out in Europe is hellishly expensive. Especially for those of us unfortunate enough to earn South African Rands. The Rand has been heading steadily south. I notice it every year when I need to change money. Sigh. I wish Nelson Mandela was still around. Those were good days for Saffas.
Rain en route to Dordrecht
The other big reason we self-cater is we’re both almost vegan. So we eat fully vegan at home and on the boat. But if we go out to a friend for a meal or are at a place with limited options then we drop back to vegetarian food. But we prefer not to have to do that. We LOVE local organic and ethical food stores such as Marqt and Eko Plaza found all over Holland. Even regular supermarkets such as Jumbo or Albert Heijn have a fair selection of vegan and organic food. More important than eating out or saving money – is eating nourishing food. We also love being on our boat. In good weather we sit on the back deck and watch the world go by quaffing a glass of organic wine and enjoying a healthy meal.
Dordrecht marina
It was a short journey to our next port of call, Dordrecht. Along the River Lek, the River Maas Noord and the Oude Maas River. No more narrow gentle canals. Now we were sharing the waterways with big beefy barges and dealing with tides and the resultant currents. When we were travelling with the tide we made great speed but the opposite occurred when we motored against the tide. Dordrecht is quite a big place with lots of marine activity, both pleasure and commercial boats. We had to wait for the havenmeester (harbour master) to open a bridge so we could pass through. And allocate a berth. Unfortunately we were placed miles away from the havenkantoor (harbour office). Which meant no wi-fi – yet again! The shower and ablution block was a trek. Dordrecht is a lovely historical harbour and can accommodate some seriously big boats. We don’t envy big boats. There is a lot more scope for travelling in a smaller boat.
