Barging in Burgundy Part 25 – Final

Barging in Burgundy Part 25 – Final

To read from the beginning use this link – Barging in Burgundy

Day Fifty-Two – 18th August 2017
Lyon to London
We thought we had seen most of Lyon and weren’t trying to do too much. It seemed a good idea to go back to the marina and make sure we hadn’t missed out. Lyon have really missed a trick not making more of their marina. It’s modern and clean but unfortunately can only accomodate 20 boats. A few of those spaces are occulpied by local hire boats. Then we thought we would walk to to the confluence of the Rhone and the Saone. It’s actually an amazing walk with boards giving information. Along the way are quirky buildings, all manor of boats including boat offices. At the meeting point of the two rivers the view of Lyon goes on forever. Lyon and Marseille rival each other for the second largest city in France at somewhere between 2 and 3 million inhabitants.

Breakfast at our Airbnb in Lyon

Breakfast at our Airbnb in Lyon

The other vegan spot we hoped to visit – Against the Grain – was closed. So back to YAAFA it was. Not that we were unhappy. I love the fun, modern, repurposed furnishings and interior. Each time we visited there was at least one person who spoke perfect English. And they always checked if we were happy.

The big trek was about to commence. We collected our bags and made our way to Lyon Part Dieu. I was coerced into buying a cheap suitcase by someone who shall remain nameless. Two paces in and the one wheel was flattened, bent backwards and dragging underneath. This nameless person offered to schlep my cheap suitcase and I’m mean, I let him.

Next was the Rhone Express bus to Lyon Aeroport. It’s a fair distance from Lyon city centre. And busy being upgraded. The tram dropped us quite a distance from where we needed to be. By the time we arrived at the right place I was shattered, hot and not very happy. Then our BA flight was delayed due to the weather. Great opportunity to finish the book I picked up en route about Madame Pompadour. Found that book most interesting. Much insight into the French Revolution.

Meeting place of the two rivers

Meeting place of the two rivers

We finally boarded our flight. The minute I entered the shute I was struck by how loud the people were. We arrived at the London apartment and to be honest crashed. Everything needed to be switched back on and started again. That would all wait for the next day.

Day Fifty-Three – 19th August 2017
London
It was difficult adjusting to the hustle and bustle of a big city like London. It seemed so noisy. So in your face. Meandering at a snails pace through villages is hardly stressful. I was startled by the sirens and people shouting on their mobile phones or how loud they were talking while sitting right next to each other. Certain nationalities are renownded for being loud. What I can say is the French, certainly where we were, are discreet and polite. At no point whether on the street or on public transport or even interacting with them, did I ever think someone was loud or brash.

My husband and I had a long and difficult conversation about our beloved boat Shangri La. We love her. We love being on her. But there are some issues owning a boat so far from where we live. An obvious one is our proximity to her. We live in South Africa and can’t just pop across. We take 6 to 12 weeks out of our year to enjoy time on her, but truthfully, that isn’t enough to justify the investment. As a South African, I’m limited by visa restrictions in terms of how many days I can spend in France. Shangri La – plain and simply isn’t getting enough attention.

Our best place to eat YAAFA

Our best place to eat YAAFA

My other half unfortunately broke his back two decades back and although he’s in good health – he has to be very careful. Certain moves can set him into spasm causing extreme pain. The maintenance and cleaning of Shangri La was not doing him any good at all. In fact he was constantly hurting his back twisting and turning trying to mop and brush the boat. Or contort his body getting to the engine.

He had also retired in the last few months and we were trying to get a new business off the ground back in South Africa. My other half has family committments in the UK as well. All this time away from home wasn’t helping us one bit. We decided to squeeze the most out of two last summers on the boat, but to put her on the market in the meantime. It was a horrible decision to make. I felt pangs of deep sadness, but also relief. Who knows, if our business did really well, we could go back to hiring boats again? Could I enjoy a hire boat like I enjoy our special boat? Or go somewhere different for a change. Like India or China maybe?
Time will tell.

Barging in Burgundy Part 24

Barging in Burgundy Part 24

To read from the beginning use this link – Barging in Burgundy

Day Fifty – 16th August 2017
Lyon
Turns out the canny French took advantage of the public holiday and took an extra, extra long weekend. Most restaurants and small shops were closed. They place a notice in the window informing people they’re away on holiday. Not all of them do it though. We specifically hunted down a vegan supermarket and a few eateries, only to find them all closed. Our Airbnb host gave us suggestions for sight-seeing. But not before he plied us with a French breakfast. Croissants, coffee, French bread and confit. How they keep slim on a diet like that baffles me. There’s the old city. Which is actually the very, very old city. Ruins going back to Roman occupation. And numerous beautiful places of worship including the basillica, which I have to say is more beautiful than any I have ever seen.

I love Lyon. It’s much brighter, cleaner and friendlier than Paris. It’s also the gastronomic capital of France. Last time we visited Lyon, I clocked just over 30 000 steps. This day I got to 27 403. It’s not hard to do. So much to see. Back at our Airbnb accommodation we rested our legs, then settled at a spot next to the Rhone for a drink. I’ve said this before, going to say it again. The French know how to behave. They are free to drink in public places. Along the banks of the river, hundreds of folk settled on the steps or on the grass with wine, beer or whatever their drink of choice. Not one incident. No loudness. No bad behaviour. Nothing untoward. How do they get it right?

Lyon

Lyon

We went to an eatery called YAAFA – You Are A Falafel Addict. They make the most amazing salads or wraps. After that amount of walking – fair to say – we had a good nights sleep.

Day Fifty-One – 17th August 2017
Lyon
Our Airbnb host served us breakfast on his balcony overlooking the Rhone. We had a local delicacy called a Praluline – a brioche with pink praline. Very nice. But probably not the healthiest. I was glad to try it as I could not bring myself to buy one. We also had freshly squeezed orange juice – a bit of goodness to offset this decadence. One of the things I liked about our host is he gave us so much local info and stories. Which foods are from the region. I loved the story of how the Festival of Light which originated on 8th December has developed over the years. It’s now a global festival encompassing light. Laser, candles, fireworks, you name it.

Amphitheatre

Amphitheatre

We managed to miss the food market previous days, so this was our chance. It was smaller than usual as many of the vendors were away on holiday. Note to self – avoid France during the holiday season. Shoulder seasons are best. And cooler. I wanted a hat as mine was left behind on the boat. Won’t lie, I love to window shop. Real shop sometimes too. *bashful face* It was a great excuse to drag my other half though the shops. Am so lucky he is patient with me.

We tried to go to Cafe Vert again but alas it was definitely closed for a while. So we had lunch at a veggie place our host reccommended called Solene. Wish we had gone there sooner. Glad we got to experience their food. After 8 hours on the our feet the day before and 4 hours this day, we thought a post lunch snooze or relax was not exactly an indulgence. It’s hot in the middle of France. Like 30’C plus, plus hot. An airconditioned room was most inviting.

Inside the Basilica

Inside the Basilica

Our last night we had a picnic (pique-nique) on the banks of the Rhone, like veryone else seems to do in Lyon. They have loads of ex-barges which have been turned into bars and restaurants on the side of the Rhone. And seating on the quay. It’s lovely. Have I said how much I like Lyon? It’s a special place. It lacks the busyiness of Paris and the industrial feel of Marseille. The Rhone is the route from the north to the south. North France to south France. But also northern Europe to the Mediterranean countries. I could sit and watch boats passing by forever. We had a last pot of wine at one of the barges next to the river. Lyon is the only place that calls a carafe or pichet of wine – a pot. Not that we can pronounce it. Have to point it out on the menu. Apparently there are 3568 restaurants in Lyon. And a population of 2.5 million. More Michelin star restaurants per head than anywhere else in France. I can well believe it.

See more – here.

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