Barging in Burgundy Part 4

Barging in Burgundy Part 4

Barging in Burgundy

To read from the beginning use this link – Barging in Burgundy Part 1.

Day Seven – 4th July 2017
Tournus
There was no great rush to do anything so we had a leisurely breakfast and then went to do the walking tour of Tournus. It takes just over an hour. The main attraction is the abbey built around 1100. In excellent condition. We found little lanes and side roads and were able to read about their importance in times gone by. A man had accosted us as we started our walk and told us about his creperie. My mother was keen to try a French crepe so we made our way to Place de l’Arc and found his Sweet and Savoury Pancakes. Hellava friendly chap. Very proud that his food was made from local and mostly organic produce. And it was good.

My mother had been wanting to have Atlantic Salmon. Much as we adhere to a vegan lifestyle we didn’t have it in our hearts to deny her this, so bought her a piece of salmon to cook on the BBQ. I made marinated veggie and tofu kebabs for my husband and myself. A couple of salads and potatoes wrapped in foil to put on the fire. We have a portable mini kettle style BBQ that we place on the grass or jetty when we make an outdoor meal. Perfect in hot weather.

Tournus

Tournus

Day Eight – 5th July 2017
Tournus to Mâcon nord
The trip from Tournus to Mâcon was just under 3 hours. We should have made better time as we were going with the current but there was quite a strong head-wind slowing us down. It’s green and really pretty en route. It’s also much nicer to be moving on the water when it’s hot. Temperatures were around 32’C. We bought two 2 x 3 metres pieces of blue tarpaulin at the garden (jardin) section of the supermarket for €2. A steal really. The two triangles we had bought made a HUGE difference. We were still sitting around dripping with perspiration but it at least we had some shade. One of the other boaters had taken a drive to a river where they went swimming to cool off. My other half and I took cold showers on the boat and wore a nothing more than our sarongs.

Tournus

Tournus

The marina north of Mâcon is fabulous. The French Waterways guidebook recommends it over the moorings in Macon ville as it’s quieter. The amenities are spotless, air-conditioned and modern, they also have free bicycle hire. Bonus. And super friendly staff who are happy to speak English. It’s about a 4 kilometre walk to sightseeing in Macon Ville. Mâcon Nord has a massive supermarket and a free bus service nearby. The cost per night was €23 with an extra €2 for electricity.

We had met a lady at Tournus and encountered her again in Mâcon. Turns out her husband had always dreamed of doing the waterways of France. Sadly, he developed Parkinson’s disease. Not one to be deterred, she was doing most of the boating, and all the rest of the chores, to realise his dream. They would go for walks together and we even saw them cycling together. Can’t have been easy for her but what a beautiful love story.

Map of places of interest in Tournus

Map of places of interest in Tournus

On the other side of our boat was a hire boat with 4 French couples. I love how civilised they were. Full table of food with multiple courses for supper. They took their meals at a leisurely pace and spoke softly to each other. We barely noticed a boat full of people right next to us enjoying the evening. And I have to say, that is my experience of French people. Whether it’s their children, the teenagers or adults on holiday, they never seem to disgrace themselves.

Read more – on this link

Barging in Burgundy Part 3

Barging in Burgundy Part 3

Barging in Burgundy

To read from the beginning use this link – Barging in Burgundy

Day Five – 2nd July 2017
Chalon-sur-Saône
The plan was to have a day in Chalon-sur-Saône. One of our favourite spots. Also, a bigger place so, super handy from a shopping perspective. Sundays are slow at the best of times in France. You really want to be in a larger place like Chalon-sur-Saône on a Sunday. A village would have been deader than dead. It was a no brainer to lurk a bit longer. They have a fabulous food market on Sunday mornings so we hot footed it over the St Laurent bridge, followed the crowds, and immersed ourselves in the lanes that make up the market. Truth is French markets are not always good value. Supermarkets are often cheaper. But they are so seductive with their beautifully arranged produce and tastings. Vendors tout for business and it’s impossible to resist items you wouldn’t ordinarily see. Asparagus as fat as my wrist, black tomatoes, the freshest herbs and all sorts of berries.

Approaching Chalon-sur-Saone

Approaching Chalon-sur-Saone

We bought juicy summer melons, donut peaches and cherries. After our shopping, we stopped at a café next to the river for a French coffee. Caught up on Internet related stuff and moseyed back to the boat. There we did lots of non important things. Read, snacked, had a snooze and played cards. Late afternoon I went for a run along the river and came back to make Puy Lentil Rissoles with a chunky tomato sauce, minted peas and a cabbage and potato mash for supper. We washed that down with local red wine. It felt like the sun was never going to set. Still bright at 21.30pm. Across the river there was a festival of sorts and we could hear music.

Food Market Chalon-sur-Saone

Food Market Chalon-sur-Saone

Day Six – 3rd July 2017
Chalon-sur-Saône to Tournus
Before we left Chalon, we wanted to go to the hardware store (bricolage) and an organic food shop on the opposite side of the marina in a retail area. The weather had been cool and rainy but the forecast was for hot weather. On the boat, hot weather can be really hot. We hoped to find some shade cloth. What is shade cloth in French? No idea, but we tried to mime and use words we knew to explain and they seemed to understand as they took us to triangles of cloth with metal rings which we bought.

Tied up in Chalon-sur-Saone

Tied up in Chalon-sur-Saone

At the organic food shop, we went a bit crazy and stocked up on things you don’t easily find in the French supermarkets. Smoked tofu, veggie pates and organic toiletries. I love the soap they make in Marseilles. Back at the boat we untied and set off along the Saône toward Tournus. I was pronouncing it tour nos but it’s actually thoor noo. No wonder no one understood me. One big lock and a few hours later we tied up at the very last space in Tournus.

The mooring in Tournus is free. You get electricity and water. No amenities. There are public toilets scattered around the town but they’re not great. And defo no wi-fi. Free is always good so we weren’t complaining. You’re limited to 36 hours and then required to move on.

Tournus

Tournus

They say in the French Waterways map book that it’s around Tournus that the change between north and south France becomes apparent. The northerners have grey tall buildings with grey roofs. They are fair and reserved. The climate is cooler. Southern buildings are shorter with red tiled roofs and autumnal colours abound. The people are darker and more animated. It’s hotter in the south. And yes, I could see a difference.

Read more – on this link

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