Before he met me, my husband would take his annual holiday in Greece, every single year, for nearly a decade. He’s not alone. There are plenty Grecophiles who migrate to the same island and the same hotel, to hopefully have the same experience, again and again. For Europeans Greece is a go-to destination where sun is guaranteed and the landscape is vastly different from the grey skies and rain soaked fields.
Waiting for the next ferry
We went to Greece a few years after it joined the Eurozone. We heard that Euro status had pushed prices up. We heard right. Overnight a cup of coffee that would have been say $1 in Drachma became $3 in Euro. And that translated into all areas, meals, scooter hire and accommodation. Before Greece had been a value destination, now it costs the same as a trip to most Western European countries.
Ferry arriving at Ios island
It’s always so interesting to write about our older holidays and how many changes can occur in just a few years. Greece is in economic crisis right now and may well have to revert to the Drachma. Will the old prices return? Who knows?
Tourism is the number one source of income for Greece and in the height of season – July and August – Greece is more hell than heaven. Unless hanging out with hoards of bright red, drunk or hung over Europeans is your idea of fun. The best time to visit Greece is mid to low season. If that’s not possible then avoid the tourist hot spots and seek out remote areas of Greece. There are places in Greece where time has stood still.
Santorini
Much of the tourism industry shuts down after low season. Ferry services dwindle, restaurants and accommodations close as many islanders head back to the mainland for winter. You don’t want to visit Greece too close to the end of the season or you could struggle to have a holiday at all.
I always say this and it’s true. No matter how much time you budget, you never have enough time to explore a country. A person can’t see and do it all. You have to prioritise and accept your lot or you can run yourself ragged and ruin your holiday. Athens is probably your arrival destination and a good vantage point for seeing the mainland. So allow a couple of days there.
Sailing off Skopelos island
Greece has over 60 inhabited islands in the Ionian, Aegean and Mediterranean Seas. The northern islands are greener and cooler. The southern islands are hotter with less vegetation. Ideally a couple of days in say the Sporades Islands and a couple in The Cyclades islands will give you a chance to experience the diversity.
Most common mode of travel – run down scooters
If you book in advance – make sure you factor in ferry timesandallow plenty time for tardy services. We missed our ferry to Skiathos when our bus from the airport broke down. And the next hydrofoil that came only had one seat. We waited nearly half a day to finally get to the island.
Next week in – Part 2 – I talk about food for vegetarians and wine, scooters and getting about. And the week after in – Part 3 – I discuss sailing, the islands and Athens.
Naxos town
Go to – My Holidays and Trips – at the top of this page to read about other places we have visited. Or just click on – this link.
In – Part 1 – of this blog series posted a fortnight ago, I talk about backdrop events to our visit and our hotel. In – Part 2, which went out last week, I give suggest what to do and see in Buenos Aries.
Ranch day trip – museum
We noticed what we thought were Native American Indians playing pan flutes and drums in the streets. We loved the music and bought a CD from them. Turns out they are the original inhabitants of Argentina. It’s hard to get that. The native people are present in such small numbers that you don’t see them. Much like indigenous people in Australia.
There are multiple bus tours available. Your hotel should be able to provide you with options or tour companies will give you details. Buenos Aries does not have a tourism office that you walk into. But there are kiosks where you can get free maps and pamphlets.
Ranch day trip – gaucho
Here are some ideas: –
A day trip to the beaches in – Uruguay – and – Montevideo
The – Tigre Delta
City – bus tours
A day trip via the – Pampas – to a hacienda
including traditional food, Tango dancing and Gauchos showing off their skills with horses and lassos
Visit the – Gran Chaco – area to see the arts and crafts of the indigenous – Toba – people
Ranch day trip – Barbecue
Do I even need to say that finding food for vegetarians is tough? Meat in Argentina is supposed to be the best in the world and steak houses abound. They have a fair amount of Italian food so pizza and pasta is readily available. We found a food hall in the city that had a vegetarian vendor – Green and Co – which was great and we headed straight there every evening.
Ranch day trip – gauchos rounding up horses
As far as safety is concerned. We were warned to be vigilant. There are street people. Whole families live on the streets. There was a family who slept in the street opposite our hotel. People beg for money and accost the cars trying to sell anything from tea towels to hats.
Giving money to beggars only perpetuates the problem as people learn to make a living scrounging and continue to do so. If you do feel moved to make a difference, donate to a charity that uplifts impoverished people.
At the top of this page is a link for travel and safety tips which are applicable anywhere in the world.
Vegetarian food at Green & Co in the city
In the end we had a city break with two day trips. We did the Tigre Delta, which is this amazing area where people live on the water. It is only accessible by boat. And we did the hacienda or ranch day trip. We got to see a bit of the Pampas from the bus when were taken to a lovely big old house on a ranch.
Gauchos strut around and help with the midday meal and then impressed us by getting their animals to do all sorts of things. We had a display of tango dancing which was nice. At La Boca the dancers would only dance if you gave them money. We ate our fill at the ranch. There was plenty food and wine.
We did as much as we could but I do wish we had managed to visit Uruguay.
Maybe next time.
Go to – My Holidays and Trips – at the top of this page to read about other places we have visited. Or just click on – this link.
Last week in – Part 1 – I talk about backdrop events to our visit to Argentina and the hotel we stayed in.
Buenos Aries is the same latitude as Cape Town so the is similar. Mild winters and warm summers. Buenos Aries was a complete surprise to me. The Spanish influence is immediately evident. Locals look Spanish, speak Spanish and the architecture was much like I had seen in Spain. It felt like I was in Europe. This wasn’t the South America I was expecting. Where were the indigenous people?
Caminito area
And there was a lot more I wasn’t expecting. Like the immense diversity of the country. Argentina extends far south toward the Antarctic to Tierra del Fuego where you can see glaciers, across west in the direction of neighbour Chile is Mendoza where they produce wines. Near Mendoza are some of the highest mountain peaks in the world in the Andes mountains. And there are lakes, wetlands, deserts, salt flats, forests and more . . . Phew!
Tango dancers in the street – he’s checking I put money in the box
We thought a week would be enough.
We had to accept we were not going to see it all and prioritise. Since we were based in Buenos Aries and not hiring a car. We chose to combine self-guided walks with bus tours.
In the city of Buenos Aries our must-do’s were –
Florida Street
Water taxis – Tigre Delta
Follow a map and see as many of the famous districts and landmarks as possible
Visit – Eva Peron’s – tomb in the Recoleta cemetery
Take a trip on the old – underground train – with manual doors from Peru station
See and stroll along the Waterfront area
Take advantage of the favourable exchange rate and do a bit of shopping.
Have a custom – leather jacket – made up
Walk along the – Caminito – in the – La Boca – area
Enjoy a coffee at one of the many street cafes
Eat lots of local – ice cream
Also worth trying if you have the time or inclination –
Watch a – football – match at one of the many stadiums
Take – Tango – lessons
Visit a – parrilla – or steak restaurant
Watch a – polo – match
Street people
Next week in – Part 3 – I suggest day trips, eating and give a link to safety tips.
Go to – My Holidays and Trips – at the top of this page to read about other places we have visited. Or just click on – this link.
The first backdrop to this trip was that South Africa had been the victim of an alleged move done by bankers at Deutche Bank around 2002 that caused the value of the South African Rand to drop substantially. Read more here. Long haul holidays were out of reach for most of us.
Waldorf Hotel
Although South Africa had recovered somewhat at the time we went to Argentina, the problems over there were far worse. They were at the mercy of bank loans they were unable to replay.
The Peso had devalued even more than our currency and Argentina became an affordable destination. Argentina is the same latitude as South Africa – and just across the ocean – so many South Africans jumped at the chance to be able to afford to travel.
Rose Palace
It’s always interesting to look back. At that time, no-one seemed particularly concerned that these two countries had been so hard hit by greedy bankers – and loans that created massive debt. However, now that rogue banking practices are affecting first world countries and the European Union is in crisis – suddenly there are calls for investigations and criminal charges to be laid against bankers. Debt is handled with kid gloves to ensure the survival of indebted countries.
The other background theme to this week long break was mass protests. Unions and various groups took to the streets banging – pots and pans – making a noise – against unemployment. Read more here. While we were in Argentina it was the turn of Argentine soldiers from the – Falklands War – who were protesting. They had tents in the central square and wanted people to know they felt betrayed by their government.
Waterfront
I’m in the UK right now where they have been commemorating the 30th anniversary of the Falklands war. It doesn’t seem right to commemorate a war. A mourning for losses on both sides is more appropriate. I felt for these Falklands soldiers when I was there.
Flea market in Recoletta area
However, on a lighter note, and moving on to our holiday in Argentina. We flew – Malaysia Airlines. I have to say the flight and service were excellent. Our deal was a week at the – Waldorf Hotel – including airport shuttle service. The Waldorf was having an upgrade at the time we stayed and somehow a pipe burst and we ended up having to move rooms. But the hotel was central and comfortable. Meals were good. To be honest I just wanted to set foot in South America. Anywhere would have been fine.
Once there, we knew we wanted to do our usual walkabout the city, take in the popular attractions and get a sense of who the locals were, how they lived, what they ate . . . that sort of thing. Here are a few handy links to help decide what you want to do – Trip Advisor, Lonely Planet, easy BA and wiki travel.
Avenue 9th July – the widest road I have ever seen
Part 2 – of this blog series deals with what to do and in – Part 3 – I give ideas for day trips, eating and a link to safety tips.
Go to – My Holidays and Trips – at the top of this page to read about other places we have visited. Or just click on – this link.
Part 1 – of this three part blog is about speaking French and free things to do. Part 2 – deals with must-sees and getting to and from airport.
Markets
Les Halles translated into English means – the markets. There are food markets galore. Find them – here, here, also here and lastly here. Self catering suits me. Western European countries, apart from Italy, are hell for vegetarians. French cuisine may be all that, but I gave their bistros a wide berth. I wasn’t willing to risk ordering something in French and not know what I might be getting. Plus, the French are inclined to sneak meat into most soups, salads and vegetable side dishes.
Bicycle hire
Instead, we stocked up on French wines, cheeses, breads and pastries. We bought yummy fresh fruit and vegetables from the markets and we ate well. The few times we ate out, we went to one of the many Lebanese restaurants where the food was well priced, full of fresh salads and excellent quality. And it worked out infinitely cheaper.
Entrance to our apartment
Paris self catering apartment
River Seine
When it comes down to it, you have to decide why you travel. Do you want to visit every museum and place of interest? Or do you want to see how other people live and experience another culture. With Paris that question is particularly relevant. You can run yourself ragged posing in front of every tourist spot for pics to take back home or post on facebook. I tend to pick just a few must-sees and focus more on soaking up the vibe. I love nothing more than to walk about, get lost and just enjoy exploring a new place away from the hoards of camera ready tourists. I like to pretend I am a local. No big camera at the ready or obsessive massive map following all the while missing the views. Nor do I do tourist clothes. The safari pants and jackets with a million pockets and survival gadgets – not me.
With that in mind, my must-dos are –
The Seine from Eiffel Tower
An evening stroll along the banks of the River Seine crossing back and forth over the bridges
Wandering along the Champs Elysee to window shop
A coffee and a pastry at one of the street cafes
Visiting the food markets in Les Halles or any of the other excellent food markets
Relaxing and enjoying your market food in one of the many beautiful gardens
A trip up and down the River Seine on one of their boats
Bon voyage!
Go to – My Holidays and Trips – at the top of this page to read about other places we have visited. Or just click on – this link.
