My Internet Service Provider – Mweb, and ADSL Provider – Telkom, let me down badly. I have been without access to the Internet for longer than I think is fair or reasonable. Nine days.
I am back up for now and will do a quick post linking you to some travel tips. There are 20 tips for visitors to Cape Town, 20 health and safety tips with regard to a stay in South Africa, 20 money saving tips and 20 travel packing tips.
For the tourist tips follow this link – Travel tips
I hope my service providers don’t drop me again so I can complete the last two posts on the Southern African camping trip I did.
Go to – My Holidays and Trips – at the top of this page to read about other places we have visited. Or just click on – this link.
Most people ask about your last holiday when you get home. I find more experienced travellers ask the most questions. Those who haven’t travelled much don’t really care much to hear about another destination. I am surprised at how many people have followed my Africa trip on this blog.
Back to travelling. We had a not too early start as we set off to Kwando campsite. There was the usual frenzied rush to get breakfasted and showered before we got moving. The journey to Kwando was short and we managed to erect our tents nice and early and have a relaxing afternoon.
What to do with a free afternoon
At Kwando camp, we were each presented with an indemnity form from the owners waiving the site of any liability if we were attacked by “wind and dangerous animals”. OK!
Sunset on the Kwando River
And there really were wild animals about. By now, the unmistakable sound of hippo grunting was ever present. Fortunately during the day they stayed in the rivers so as not to get sunburned. I wasn’t about to have a swim anyway.
There was a village tour on offer which most of the Germans took. I believe it was fun. The locals dressed up in traditional gear. They sang and danced and showed where they live. That sort of thing. Since I am South African and been on farms before, I have seen rural life.
Botswana border
I chose to relax and get some washing done. We had a great evening relaxing around the fire. The food was consistently good. We got the lotto with our guide when it came to food. We also had to use up as much food as we could as it is forbidden to take certain foods into Botswana.
Our next destination was Chobe. En route we encountered the usual friendly police road blocks to check passports, driver’s licence, permits, that sort of thing. On the Namibian side, they were very easy going. However, in Botswana, it got a whole lot trickier. Unbeknown to us tomatoes and cucumbers were on the “not allowed” list. Some heavy negotiating took place.
Eco bathroom at Chobe campsite
Chobe campsite was an absolutely amazing place. It was a mix of luxurious cabins and camping. That said, it was marred by a mix up with regard to our camping spot. I still don’t know what happened. We thought we booked a particular spot and a party of South Africans seemed to think they had booked there. A huge argument ensued and I am not proud to say I had a fair part in it. These Saffas would not leave the site despite it being patently obvious we were desperate to get set up so we could do a river cruise.
All I can say is that I was so ashamed to be South African in front of the Germans. But the Germans also had a turn to hang their heads when we were at Victoria Falls airport. Some Germans casually shoved in front of us with no shame at all. Hey, you get them.
Yet another early start as we headed to the Okavango Delta. Tour groups often camp on the islands in the delta but many of the islands were under water due to the high rains. Our guide planned for us to take a Makorro boat trip through the waterways and have lunch on an island that had formed since the rains.
The Okavango Delta is shallow and the boats are light. Mokorro boats are moved by poking poles on the ground below the water and pushing the boat along. It’s really relaxing and a person gets right next to the water creatures and vegetation.
Al fresco lunch on island in Okavango Delta
Lunch was a chicken salad, pasta salad and home baked bread rolls. We chatted to the manager of the lodge that provided the lunch spread for us. Botswana is big on eco tourism. Nature reserves in Botswana are fiercely protected and tourism is either high end luxury, but build sustainably, or low end camping. That way, the impact of tourism can be kept to a minimum.
Bushman paintings at Toleni
One of the things this guy had a possible explanation for, was why some people are eaten alive by mosquitoes, while others are left in peace. He observed that diabetics and people with blood sugar related disorders seemed to be a magnet for mosquitoes. Do mosquitoes have a sweet tooth? I am one of the lucky ones and I don’t eat much sugar so his theory could well hold true. I don’t like taking anti malarials but I did take Artemesia, a herbal tablet. If you want to read more about natural options have a look at this older post – natural deterrents to malaria.
Bushman paintings
After lunch, the polers gave chase getting us back to our bus. Next we made our way to Toleni where there are a lot of bushman paintings. We missed out on bushman paintings in Namibia due to road detours so this was our last chance to see this ancient art/history. Toleni is a UNESCO heritage site. The 40 kilometre road to Toleni was a nightmare. The truck had to go so slowly and still we were being thrown about inside. The signposting was poor and we could not find a reception desk or anyone who appeared to work there.
Walking to the “mountain”
We took a decision to walk toward the “mountain” and hope for the best. This “mountain” is also the tallest in all Botswana. The walk took about an hour and most of us were in flip flops and so, rather unprepared. The thick mud from the road stuck like glue to the soles of our flip flops making them extra heavy. We were walking funny to try and stop our shoes falling off and not step in the mud.
Luckily we did find a few rock paintings. There must have been more, but weighing on our minds was that we did not have a guide or know our way around, the arduous 40 kilometre trek back along the road and the fact that we had to be out the game reserve by 18.00pm or we would get locked inside.
We made it to the final gate exactly in time. The gate had been pulled shut but not yet locked. Phew! We got to the campsite after dark and set about making supper. There was a guy who could mimic the sound of a hippo and he kept making hippo sounds. After our previous night when we had a hippo strolling in and around our tents, a person did have to think twice.
We had our usual breakfast – muesli, fruit, yogurt, bread, cheeses, Nutella and preserves. The Germans took to Rooibos tea instead of regular tea. Rooibos tea is an institution in Southern Africa. We even have what they call a red cappuccino which is made from Rooibos. Yummy!!
And of course we had to wash and pack everything away. The hyenas and monkeys will happily help themselves to all one’s food if one is not careful but we were on the move anyway.
The sightings in Etosha were disappointing. The high rainfall meant the watering holes were hardly used as animals could get water anywhere really. But what we did see, and only occurs during high rainfall, was flamingos. We saw lots of them.
We spent two nights in Etosha National Park. One at Okaukeujo Camp and the other at Namatoni Bush Camp. When we were on the long open roads it felt like we had Namibia all to ourselves. But in the camps we soon discovered that actually, there were plenty people about. Buses heaving with humans were everywhere. The campsites were full.
Pondering the merits of driving this road
We did a lunch stop at Halali Camp. We often had left-over food for lunch, but the same two individuals in our group, single handedly devoured enough food for a platoon of soldiers the night before. Three helpings of food stacked up high, EACH! Our driver came late for supper and there was no food left for him. He ate at the restaurant.
From Ethosha we did a shop up at Tsumeb and went past Grootfontein, an ex South African Defence Force base in the apartheid days. Namibia used to belong to South Africa and all young men were conscripted to the army for two years. It evoked memories for our driver and the South African guy on the tour.
Okavango River
We passed through a good few road blocks. They usually checked for permits, drivers licences and the carrying of prohibited foods. I guess to prevent the spread of epidemics like foot and mouth.
The Namibian authorities were super friendly. Less so in Botswana and in Zimbabwe they had speed traps, but no road signs giving us a clue to allowed speeds. Oh, and they hid away in the bushes and charged out to stop us in Zimbabwe. Not so nice!
On we drove, now heading for Rundu. We had been warned that the campsite there had been inaccessible for quite some time, but was now open again.
We all disembarked the bus and waded through the water on the roads. Our driver decided to go for it and drive through the river that had formed in the road. Had the sand been soft, he wouldn’t have risked it, but he felt the ground was firm enough to allow some traction on the tyres.
Another campsite
However on arrival, the consensus amongst the group was to upgrade to rooms, except for the two over eaters. The ground was still wet and I think we all just felt like a proper room for a change. Think – hot water on tap, no hauling gear on and off the truck, no damp tents, no wild animals lurking in the bushes. Aaah – heaven!
Breakfast the next morning was no better than our usual DIY feast, but hey, no dishes and no dashing to the communal ablution facilities before the bus left.
After that reprieve we all piled back into the truck and we now made our way toward the Popa Falls where we would stop next. This campsite was also under water but there were higher lying areas where we could pitch our tents.We needed to pitch our tents to dry them as they had been in the truck overnight.
What to do with a free afternoon
We got to Popa early and had the afternoon free. The Popa Falls are not that big. They are more like rapids. We couldn’t see them as the area was flooded. As much as we enjoyed our upgrade, it was great being back in nature. The sounds of birds in the trees, rapids rolling past nearby and the fresh air made us all lazy and we relaxed reading books or snoozing on the grass.
Supper was marinated spare ribs and salad for the meat eaters. I had veg mince I brought along with salad.
That night we got eaten alive by ants in our tents. That was also the night we were woken by a hippo strolling between our tents munching grass. Hey, in the bush you have to take the rough with the smooth. That’s just how it is.
The guy who arrived with a cold before the tour decided to stay behind in Swakopmund and gave up on the tour. I guess tenting and roughing it is not a whole heap of fun when you are feeling rubbish.
We said “auf wiedersehen” and off we went in the direction of Twyfelfontein, now only 15 of us.
The roads along the way were flooded and we encountered a bus well and truly stuck. Lucky for us, our driver has worked for the company nearly two decades and knows the truck, the roads and how to drive in all conditions. Even he was amazed at how green Namibia was, how full the rivers were and how much rain Namibia has had.
A bus awaiting a second truck to tow it from mud
We took all the required detours and never took any chances. Our next stop was the cutest camp in the desert. I was repeatedly amazed at how the locals, a mix of Afrikaners, Germans, Bushmen and Africans had been able to make comfortable lives in the harshest of environments.
This camp had a system called a donkey to heat the water to the showers. See here – donkey water heating. Would have liked cell phone signal but it was not to be in many places and this was one of those places. But then again, who wants to be on the phone in the bush.
Toilet and shower block at camp site
Easter Sunday we woke up to a special spread put on by our tour guide. Lots of chocolate.
Next we made our way toward to Okavango Bush Camp next to the Okavango River which separates Angola from Namibia. The vegetation changed from arid to savanna to green and bushy. We saw lots of Oryx, also known as Gemsbok, a sort of antelope and assorted other buck en route.
We got there earlyish and were able to put up our tents and squeeze in a quickie game drive in the Etosha National Park. We saw hyena, lion, buck, birds and some reptiles. Game reserves close at fixed times and you better be out in time or you risk trouble.
Campsite
We made it out in time and we knew the routine. Unpack the trestle tables, unfold and set up chairs, wash and prepare food, light the fire, get food cooking and squeeze in a quick shower. Some preferred to shower after supper so they didn’t smell like smoke.
Supper was sausages with pap and traditional sauce. Pap is a sort of porridge made from maize meal. It can be cooked to be either soft or firm. It can be eaten sweet or savory. The sauce is usually an onion and tomato gravy. I had a parcel of chopped veggies baked on the fire.
Entrance to Etosha National Park
After supper we heated water to wash the dishes in our very own portable container and packed everything well away from scavangers such as hyena or monkeys who feel no pain to devour food rations.
That night we heard lion roaring and hyena barking close by. It does rather make one nervous to visit the toilet block when there are wild animals close by. Especially at night and when there is no moonlight.
From the dusty desert midlands of Namibia we headed west toward the coast. Our lunch stop was next to the sea in Walvis Bay. Would have been nice if they had loos there. After a morning on the bus we did need a biological break. First beach I have been to that didn’t have amenities.
After lunch, our bus took us 30 kilometers north to Swakopmund. Here we had fixed accommodation. Read – a proper bed and our own showers. And no watching the ground to avoid stepping on thorns. These evil long thorns pierced straight through our flip flops and could be really painful.
We had an hour or two to drop off laundry and find an internet cafe before the close of day. The following day was Good Friday and we didn’t expect much commercial activity. And we were right.
The sign says it all
Swakopmund is such a cute, quaint place. It is geared for tourism and had a tourist information office as well as plenty tourist gift shops. They sold things like ostrich shell jewelry, batik type table linen and gorgeous crystals. There is a German book shop and plenty restaurants and cafes.
My long anticipated hot shower was not to be. Sigh! Others in our party had hot water but we got the dud room.
We walked to The Tug restaurant for our evening meal and while it is mostly a seafood spot I had a really good veggie stir fry. Am not going to lie, I slept well.
Long open road with flood water
The next morning we had breakfast at a German bakery. The Germans all loved the familiar food. I had egg on dark toast. Then we were collected for our boat trip in Walvis Bay. We all boarded a catamaran which took us to see the local aquatic life.
We saw Benguela dolphin, Bottle Nose dolphin, one Hump Back whale, pelicans, gannets, millions of Cape Fur seal and one super friendly seal.
This seal hopped on our boat and hung about eating fish. He was quite happy to pose with us for photos, as long as he was being given fish. When the fish feeding stopped, he was on his way.
We went around and around the bay spotting new things all the time. Just before lunch we were given sparkling wine, oysters and canapes. Yuck! I don’t ever want to eat oysters. They look like mucus but hey plenty people on the boat tucked into them. And then they told me that oysters taste like mucous. Awful!
A Herera lady – she has about 10 skirts on
Our shuttle bus dropped a few of us at Cafe Anton. A German style coffee shop which the Germans said was typical of a coffee shop in Germany. It’s not like there were many places to choose from as it was Good Friday and the town was pretty quiet. But it was a good choice. We had teas, coffees and pastries. I had a “kanchen” or pot of hot chocolate and cheese cake.
We did a mini shop up for provisions at the local supermarket and collected our laundry. Our truck was washed and re-stocked and we helped pack the truck.
The rest went off for another meal out. I had succumbed to the lurgy that infected us and decided on a night in. Would have been really nice to have had a hot shower, but like I said, we had the dud room so after a cold shower I got around to reading the books I had brought on Namibia.
Boat trip Walvis Bay
We had a delayed start the following day. Some of us needed to arrange forex and have a last chance to do whatever one does in a town before we headed back into the middle of nowhere.
We tried a new breakfast spot and this one was even better than the last. I had a red cappuccino which was heavenly.
